Advance Basecamp, Mt. Everest (via satellite phone)
Elevation: 6350m/20,828ft
9:15 AM Tibetain Time
Eric Brown With The Loss Of A Friend And
Fellow Climber
Today is May 21, 1999. This is Eric Brown for Patagonia Mountain
Agency calling from Advance Basecamp and it is 9:15 in the morning. It
is with great sorrow, confusion, plus a feeling of "why?" that I make
this dispatch. Our expeditions triumph of Tuesday the 18th's summit
success has turned tragic with the loss of Tadek Kudelski who never made
it back to Camp III that night. Ryszard also spent the entire night
exhausted and fighting frostbite in negative 30 degrees Fahrenheit
temperatures and gusting winds awaiting rescue. In addition, another
expedition of two members, which summited after our team, failed to make
it to Camp III that night, and in the following days only one of those
two made it back okay. You were shocked, I'm sure, as we were and still
are. And questions about how it happened, what went wrong, why,
etcetera, are building as you read. I will, in a subsequent dispatch, do
my best to detail the events, for on our part it includes three nights
at Camp III, four climbers spending an entire night exposed on Mt.
Everest at 8,500 meters and above, search and rescue attempts, urgent
and long radio calls, sleepless [?] nights at ABC, and feelings of despair,
sadness and hope.
[long pause] It is very awkward for me, after countless dispatches
focussed on generally happy accounts of our expeditions daily
experiences, to now have to relay news of death. People die on Everest --
it is a given -- and we all knew this cold fact before and during the
expedition. It is relegated to the back of the mind, as we always do
with the prospect. Otherwise, if it was a focus life and its wonders
would be harder to enjoy. We are dealing with this as best we can given
the circumstances. We have lost a friend and a climbing partner, his
wife has lost a husband, and his kids have lost a father. We have had
several days to talk and cope with these losses and our mess tent has
been a meeting place for other expeditions, both intimately involved and
concerned, during and since the tragedy. And this has helped, having
friends and strangers joining us in figuring things out. This is an
expedition to Mt. Everest with all risks known -- even the real risk of
death -- but knowing we all, especially the climbers, have a chance for
injury and death, does not make the loss of Tadek any easier to accept. I
have waited until now to break the news because I have had a glimmer of
hope for a miracle, plus we were waiting for Ryszard and Jacek to return
so they could call Mrs. Kudelski. Hopefully in my next dispatch
questions you have will be answered. All our teams are back in Advance
Basecamp and we begin preparation to leave ABC. Keep the Kudelski
family in your thoughts and prayers, and us also, as we pack up and also
continue to contrast the extreme excitement and sorrow we have all
experienced. I know you've probably started reading about the incident
on other websites -- hearsay, rumors -- that's all they are. We will be
providing the story because it is our story. So please stay tuned. This
is Eric Brown for PMA.