Advance Basecamp, Mt. Everest (via satellite phone)
Elevation: 6350m/20,828ft
Low -10C/14F High 4C/35F Calm
9:40am
Eric Brown Describes ABC Life, Food and Politics
James Asks The Burning Question: What's With The Food, Man?
This is Eric Brown reporting for Patagonia Mountain Agency calling
from PMA Advanced Base Camp (ABC). Today's date is April 30, 1999, and
as always, base camp--Advanced Base Camp, is at 6,350 meters, 20,828
feet (plus and minus). Low this morning was about negative 10 degrees
[Celsius], 14 degrees Fahrenheit--it's just cold [laughter]--we're not
trying to be too accurate. High yesterday was about 35 degrees
Fahrenheit and, fortunately, the winds have been calm.
This morning, Jacek, Ryszard, and Witek headed to Camp I, also called
North Col, and tomorrow, weather and wind permitting, they will head up
to Camp II and set up tent. Camp II is at 7,800 meters. Tadek is
expected at ABC sometime this morning. He spent last night at IC
(Intermediate Camp). Otherwise, it's just Talli and I. Omar, Ian,
Masaru, and Barbara headed back to base camp for rest and recreation two
days ago and because of the resort-like atmosphere there, compared to
here at ABC, they are calling it beach club - short for BC, I guess. Masa
injured his leg on the trek down to base camp but is improving as of our
last radio call. Omar's cough is better also, now that he is in base
camp, and says he'll drink lots of cough syrup to aid in the recovery.
Life in ABC is okay. Food is decent to poor, although Dendy, our ABC
cook, surprised us the other night with an egg roll-type-thing
(laughter) - I know that doesn't sound very appetizing but it was very
tasty--we all gobbled them up. Breakfast is usually porridge followed
by toast and egg. Lunch is some type of bread, flash pastry, a
vegetable or potato dish, and cheese. Dinner is soup with prawn
chips or popcorn followed by a pasta dish, cauliflower, maybe moo-moos,
hot dogs, or Spam, and then desserts, which is usually a warmed canned
fruit cocktail or this fruit mush I've taken to calling yak mucous
(laughter).
Reading, resting, cleaning your tent, playing cards or checkers are ways
we pass the day. Witek spent one morning building a rock wall around
one side of his tent to cut down on the bothersome wind. The
Ukrainians seem to be advancing up the mountain the fastest with the
American-led Simonsen expedition close behind. Normally, every
expedition chips in money to whomever is fixing the ropes. Rumor is the
New Zealand-led expedition is wanting to collect money from everybody,
but the Ukrainians, who have fixed most of the ropes so far, say they
don't want any money at all. BC politics - more as the story evolves.
In my last dispatch I mentioned the Pujah ceremony held to pray for
success on the mountain. The rock platform is actually called a
churgin - c-h-u-r-g-i-n - whereas the ceremony is called a Pujah.
Talli and I will be in ABC until the 3rd of May, personal records for
living above 20,000 feet, so wish us luck. That's it for the last day
of April. I will talk to ya'll soon. Over and out from PMA Advanced
Base Camp.
James: "Alright man, sounds good...you seem to have a..."
Eric: "Yea?"
James: "You seem to have a real--uh--fascination with the food on this
journey Eric, what's with that?"
Eric: (laughter) "Well, I wouldn't call it a fascination - let's call it
more of a--uh--an aversion. (more laughter) But people like to hear
about what we're eating. I mean it's one way to bring it down to kind
of a level.
James: "Well, I hope they like it!" (more laugheter)
Prayer flags from the Pujah ceremony.