The International Wine & Food Society, Anchorage Chapter
Annual Picnic and Tasting of Williams-Selyem Pinot Noir
Imagine this. A georgeous lake, high, overlooking Anchorage,
on a most stunning sunny day, at the base of the Chugach Mountains.
The good Judge Singleton had for us the Gazebo, on a pointe of land
jutting into the lake, with huge grill in a shelter, mountains all
around, eagles soaring overhead, and ducks and geese in the water.
We've invited thirty, to partake in fabulous Alaska seafood and a
'mixed grill' by two local chefs, and, a tasting of Ed Seleym's
fabled 'pinot noirs'. Ed makes the most famous, rare, and expensive
pinots. He loves Alaska, and has a house here.
The guests accumulate. The weather is fantastic. It is the time of
the 'midnight sun', when, the sun never sets. We are out on this pointe
of land, in the middle of the lake, with mountains, all around. Jens,
of 'Jens Restaurant', opens Prince William Sound oysters, prawns, and
tons of Alaska King Crab. We taste New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc,
'Mer et Soleil' Chardonnay, and Oregon Pinot Gris, with the King Crab.
Ames and the Judge fire up the six foot grill, with many pounds of
charcoal. Flames lap the roof. Kirsten Dixon, chef extraordinaire
of the RiverSong Lodge, begins to grill.
First come Alaska buffalo-burgers, on olive and rosemary bread.
Followed by lamb chops in tarragon yoghurt, and rabbit loins in
mustard butter. Then flank steaks in fennel, and beef tenderloins
with leek, thyme, and savory. Followed by pheasant, and caribou
sausage. The piece de resistance is tenderloin of Reindeer, in
chanterelles and blood orange demi-glace. Amazing mixed grill.
Then, Ed Selyem begins his 'tasting'. He makes the finest pinot
noir. But, he has brought us wines no one else gets to taste.
Several are 'lees' wines, kept on the grape solids, and, are much
stronger, and more full-bodied, but, give a sediment. He, and we,
think, these are much more interesting than the usual releases!
Here are our tasting notes:
'93 Williams-Seleym 'Cohn' Vineyard
Fruity, pleasant, nice pinot, jammy. 91/100 rating
'93 Allen-Rochioli Lees Mixture (A/R)
This wine was not released to the public, and is a mixture of
their best two vineyards, of wines kept on the 'lees'. Amazing
depth and fruit. Lots of pinot character. 94/100 rating
'94 Hirsch Lees
Again, not released to the public. Huge, young style. Young vines,
mixture of Mt. Eden and Pommard clones. Monster of a wine. Needs
lots of time. Like a young Romanee-Conti. 96/100 rating
'93 Summa and Coastlands blend
'Summa' is W/S best, and most expensive vineyard designation, bringing
many hundreds of dollars a bottle. This blend marrys the 'berry' and
'citrus' flavors of W/S best vineyards, into an amazing pinot noir.
It is most like 'La Tache', from Romanee-Conti. 96/100 rating
'95 Rochioli 'Young Vines' (marked 95-R)
Wow. This is all 'Pommard clone', a 'fat and sassy', 'jammy', enormous
pinot. It's one of the finest, ever, like Richebourg. 99/100 rating.
A fine time was had by all. Numerous chocolate desserts completed what was,
a fabulous time, in the Arctic.
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